gateway arch

密苏里州(Missouri)圣路易斯(St. Louis)的杰斐逊国家扩张纪念碑(Jefferson National Expansion Memorial)或者叫做“盖特威拱门”(‘Gateway Arch’)很恰当地被称为美国通往西方的大道。我去圣路易斯是参加会议,为了展示一篇论文,然后决定不能错过参观这个国家的伟大标志,弧形拱门(the Arch),会后我在一个明亮的周日上午前往了这个地方。我乘坐了地铁,从Laclede’s Landing站出发。穿过公园步行了十多分钟,来到了拱门的北面。在拱门下面,游客可以走到下面开阔的游客中心(Visitor Center)去,那里有4180平方米的西部开发史博物馆(Museum of Westward Expansion),两个礼堂(Tucker和Odyssey剧院)。Tucker剧院在放映一部长约半小时的纪录片,“纪念碑之梦”('Monument to the Dream'),是拱门建设的不同阶段拍摄的。游客中心还设有博物馆商店(Museum Store),销售拱门纪念品。还有Levee Mercantile General Store出售心形面包,松饼,奶酪,火腿,爆米花和椒盐脆饼干,等等,把你带回十九世纪七十年代的圣路易斯,充满了那个时期的独特地域独特民族的味道。Tucker剧院纪录片的门票加上乘坐电车去拱门顶部的观景廊的票,总共花费66元人民币。拱门于1963年2月至1965年10月修建,耗资不到9.38千万人民币。不管怎么看都是一个工程学的奇迹,拱门塔楼表层为不锈钢,高出密西西比河河岸192米,外部三角形支架横跨了192米。拱门钢筋混凝土的底座在地面上长达18米,这样设计是考虑到即便风速达到每小时240千米,拱门的顶部也只会有0.45米的摇晃。拱门的每个支架都是等边三角形,地面层的长边是16米,慢慢减小到顶层为5米。支架是双壁建造,中间空间一直到122米的高度都是1米,122米以上的空间是0.2米。不锈钢壁的中间空隙由12,000吨钢筋混凝土填充,一直填到91米的位置,再高的位置就只是使用钢筋加固器。所设计组装的双壁、三角形的不锈钢节段可以准确地慢慢减小其规模,是叠放的形式,里面和外面都做了焊接。放在拱门之上的两个不锈钢节段是其中最小的,有2.4米。拱门临近竣工时,工程师计划晚上垫起楔石,以免白天不锈钢结构会因温度而膨胀。但是市政局不这么想;他们想趁此时机举办公众庆祝活动。结果动用了好几台消防车来往拱门南面的支架上喷水,为其降温,以便在公众的见证下垫起楔石。盖特威拱门依靠其巧妙的设计和建造创造了一个神话,其通往顶部观景廊的升运系统让人感到震惊。1968年,拱门的每个支架腿上安装了一个电车系统,设计上类似于摩天轮座舱,设有八个舱,每舱能容纳五个人,所以从每个支架出发的电车系统一次能载运40位乘客。去往顶部走的是一个弧形,座舱会在运行中转动155度。沿着弧度轨道上升时,每个座舱都是连接于升运系统的,会自动调正位置。乘电车上到拱门顶部需要大概四分钟,下来是三分钟。电车座舱环境幽闭,直径只有5米,我上到了观景廊:很窄的一片,20米长,2米宽,高度不到2米,拱门的东西两侧有几扇窗户。这么费劲上来也挺值的——从顶部看去的风景十分迷人!东边是伟大的密西西比河,三座宏伟桥梁横跨而过。西边能看到Old Courthouse的壮丽景色和漂亮的圣路易斯市区,其中点缀着很多摩天大楼,不过被高耸的拱门比了下去。盖特威拱门真的是人类文明进步、现代科技与知识的明证!站在拱门之上,我想起了几年前看过的著名电影,‘How the West was won’。

这是美国的象征之一。带孩子们去圣路易斯我们总是会来这里。博物馆下面有很多有趣的工艺品,而且可以免费参观!游客可以“坐车”到拱门的最上面,虽然有点贵,但非常值得。孩子们四处参观博物馆,而且坐车到拱门上面,玩得非常开心。我很高兴的一点是工作人员随时准备回答游客的问题,而且还向我们提供了一些有趣的物品。如果你去了圣路易斯,而且哪怕只有几小时的空闲时间,你都一定要来这里看看。

这个拱桥是位于一个很不错的公园里面的。如果你喜欢跑步的话,就来这里吧。这边有很多流浪的人,但是他们只是做自己的事情,从来不去打扰别人。我并没有参加旅行团,因为我们去的时候已经很晚了。很不错的地方,很适合跟家人一起过来。

要知道,大拱门是圣路易斯的地标性建筑,如果没有参加“ourney to the top”(巅峰之旅)——诚如这趟电车观光游的名字,我肯定不能如此彻底地了解这个城市。我自己一个人,当时我老公正在开会,虽然这是我第一次来到圣路易斯,但他们的地铁交通路线对我来说一点都不困难,从位于克莱顿(Clayton)的酒店出发,一直到大拱门那一站,很轻松。另外,如果你倾向于自驾游,那边也有停车场。进入大拱门后,你必须先通过安检。这是个十月的周六,但是排队队伍行进得很迅速,并且,买好价值十美元的门票以后,我只等了大概五分钟就搭上了下一班电车。所谓的电车其实很小很小,就好像荚状电梯,一共才五个座。上行大概是四分钟,下行三分钟,你可以在拱门上待个够。风景非常好,视野开阔,值得一看。并且保证这经历会是独一无二的。你一定不要错过!

拱门位于市中心一座美丽的公园里。很容易停车。登顶的成人门票仅需60元人民币。乘坐的轨道电车有点诡异(而且有种幽闲恐惧的感觉),但是沿途风景很好。我们乘坐的是当天最后一班电车,因此上去的时候不用等待。

Definitely the place to go to yet be prepared for a wait no matter what day of the week. We were in line just under a half-hour on a Tuesday and found it pleasant enough of a crowd. Squeeze into your arch seat and up you go. Beautiful view of the city from the top so spend a bit of time there too - be sure to hold on to your hat should it be a windy day! Park and river views are amazing!

This is the second time I've been to the arch, the first time was 20 years ago. I had forgotten how immense it is and how beautiful. The trip to the top was incredible, as was the view. The film about the monument's construction was informative and educational. There is a lot of construction going on, and when the new additions are completed this will truly be an amazing site!!

Just know that the entire park area surrounding the arch is now under construction. The plans for the update look very nice though. I'm not sure on the estimated date of opening.

Definitely worth your time to go to the Arch. Just amazing how large this structure is! Would recommend going to the top. The view is quite spectacular. It will cost you $10 to go up though.

We enjoyed our visit to the Arch despite ongoing construction. Security at entrance is tight, similar to an airport. There are several reasonably priced parking garages within a few minute's walk, but be aware of all the one way streets. If you are claustrophobic, you will not like the ride to the top of the Arch. Our six year old was a little nervous.

I have been to this site twice before. Both times it was easy to get to and the views and history were amazing! This trip was MUCH different. The road construction was horrendous. There were no signs for parking or access. After 4+ failed attempts to get to the arch we finally just gave up and left. I was very disappointed!

The arch is truly beautiful and if you're in St Louis you should go see it. I would give 5 stars if... There was a bunch of construction around it and there wasn't good signage as far as how to get there. Also the elevator is very small and if you are large it wouldn't be comfortable. And you need a photo ID to get in. Other than that it's awesome and worth the trip.

Every time I visit the arch I am amazed! The movie and museum on ground level are interesting as well. Currently, there are major renovations going on, so call ahead to find out where to park, buy tickets, etc.

There are basically five parts to this visit. 1) EXTERIOR PARK - Mississippi, walking around the magnificent arch, taking in the surroundings; 2) MUSEUM - This is a fabulous place to learn everything you ever wanted to know about the Westward Expansion. Be aware - if you ask the rangers a question they will answer IN DETAIL. They are well-informed and passionate; 3) THE RIDE - So much fun! You sit in a compartment and ratchet up to the top where you walk around and see for miles (on a clear day); 4) THE FILM - This can be done before or after the ride to the top. It tells the history and construction of the arch; 5) THE GIFT SHOP - I never miss a good gift shop, and this is one to check out. You'll want to make reservations for the ride to the top and maybe the film - call or make contact ahead of time. But if you forget to call ahead, try to take it all in anyway.

Be forewarned this is a national monument and as such everyone in the works wants to experience it. The wait is long. If you have small children maje sure they have had their nap and are at their most patient for your comfort and theirs. Take advantage of the junior ranger program. It's free and a great way to involve kids in what they're seeing and earns them a snazzy badge awarded by a real ranger!